Why this happens
A shutter that won't come down is usually caught on something mechanical, such as a slat or guide, or it isn't getting the right signal or power. On manual shutters, spring problems can also stop it lowering smoothly.
| Likely cause | Tell-tale signs |
|---|---|
| Slat caught or curtain derailed in the guide rail | Shutter stops at the same point; slat visibly sticking out |
| Obstruction or debris in the track | Shutter stops early on one side |
| Motor, limit switch or control box fault | No movement on the 'down' command, or stops early |
| Bent bottom bar or guide (after impact) | Shutter jams near the floor; visible dents |
| Spring or shaft problem (manual) | Curtain resists going down or rolls back up |
Safe checks you can do first
- Check both guide rails for objects, debris, or slats sticking out. Remove loose items only.
- Check the circuit breaker and isolator switch for motorised shutters.
- Try the wall switch if the remote doesn't work, and vice versa.
- If the motor stopped after many cycles, wait 20–30 minutes for it to cool and try once.
What not to do
- Don't force the curtain down by hand or pull on the bottom bar with body weight.
- Don't keep pressing the button. You may burn out the motor.
- Don't touch or adjust springs. They're under high tension.
- Don't stand under a partly open shutter.
How we fix it
On site we free and realign the curtain, straighten or replace damaged slats or guides, reset the motor limits or repair the control box, and test several full cycles. If a part must be ordered, we make the opening safe and secure first.
How much will it cost?
Freeing and realigning a jammed shutter starts from $180. Motor or control faults start from $150 for controls and $600 for motor replacement. Urgent after-hours attendance starts from $250.